I found your book on Long Beach, LI, NY.These photos brought back so many memories for me. Long Beach was the place to go in the '60's to surf. I'm a child of that era, but of course nearing Social Security now. Myself and my friends would spend countless hours hanging out on all of Long Beach find the perfect area of waves for that particular day. Long Beach had a sand bar off the break which plays havoc with the swells. So back then we had to move up &down the beach to find the perfect wave on any particular day. The Azores, that is further down the beach (west) was for the experienced surfers. We all ventured there too but had to be careful due to the break at the end of the getty which would suck you into the jetty and then it was an emergency call if you survived.
I remember one day in particular that still lingers in my memory. As the lore of the all the surfers seeing the perfect wave I drove to Long Beach Blvd and went to the Boardwalk to survey the waves before moving down to the beach. I was stunned to see the wave pattern that day. The wind was north (rare) and the swells were about 4 feet which was unreal. The face of the wave was holding therefore providing a perfect tube ride before closing out.... I was stunned. I could not take my eyes of this pattern of sets of 3 rolling in.... I then traveled to the Azores massive jetty and there too the waves were perfect. I drove home to get my Hansen board and had the time of my life. Strangely there were not very many of us there and I had the time of my life. It was heaven. The lore of the waves remains in the hearts of those surfers including myself. Long Beach, Gilgo, Ditch Plains, Hamptons will always hold memories for all the '60's surfers. It was the times of our lives.
Thank you,
Anne